Balenciaga 2018 autumn and winter show in a small package; logo’d shower shoes from Gucci Dapper Dan series; Batsheva Hay’s prairie dress. (Jonas Gustavsson / MCV Photo of the Washington Post; Gucci; Alexei Hay)
“You go to your closet, then you choose, oh, I don’t know, that blue sweater, for example, because you tried to tell the world that you put yourself too seriously on your back… [but] that Blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs, so when you wear the sweater you choose, you think you have made a choice that will keep you free from the fashion world. It’s ridiculous that the people in this room are at your service. Pile ‘something’.” – Miranda Priestley in “The Devil Wearing Prada”
Fashion is eating away from the masses. Of course.
In recent seasons, the fashion industry has asserted that for all the rules of contemporary taste, fashion styles such as pockets, Crocs, prairie dresses and thick orthopedic sneakers are desirable.
This is an aesthetic provocation. Hey. The key is to inspire casual observers and let them scratch their heads.
But this is not a joke. Designers don’t make these products for entertainment. Not complete. The ultimate goal is to sell.
That’s the way it is: All these bad things can be said to be ugly fashion? Consumers will buy it – because it is comfortable, familiar, and occasionally practical. Aesthetics are cursed. Picky eyes will adapt to aesthetics; they always do that. It takes time and patience, but now the chopped jeans look normal, as are the oversized silhouettes. This high-neck ruffled dress is perfect for Laura Ingalls Wilder? Wait a minute, very quickly.
The gateway to the ugly – an adjective used here – is Birkenstock. Known for its elegant molded footbed and crunchy granola history, this classic German sandal was re-imagined in the spring of 2013 by influential designer Phoebe Philo in an ultra-luxury way. In her Céline fashion show, she printed her version of the Arizona sandals on mink skin. She is bothering them. Their retail price is about $900.
“This product has gone down the Birkenstocks, and all the fashion people are licking their own steaks because they see different things,” said Susie Schaferman, a fashion consultant and stylist in Toronto. “It’s almost like a reverse snobbery.”Rick Owens designed Arizona Birkenstocks in gray cow fur and with elongated straps. (Courtesy of Birkenstock)
Owens also collaborated with Birkenstock on these black leather slides. (Courtesy of Birkenstock)
Shortly after the show, Shefman saw the photo of actress Milla Jovovich on the cover of the “Edit” of the Net-a-Porter magazine in December. “She wore a men’s white shirt, white trousers and black Birkenstocks,” Schaffman recalled thoughtfully. “It hit me at the cellular level: that is the girl I want to be.”
Who can resist? Soon after, Birkenstock’s original suede Arizona sandals were sold for $125, and Barneys New York teamed up to create a $270 version with blue wool. Rick Owens began working together in 2018 and redesigned it as a furry cow hair slide for $420.
A sturdy fashion desire has been gathered in a rough-skinned shoe, accompanied by an outdoor activity type follower and an approved podiatrist. The charm of the original version was polished. The new, fancy version is both comfortable and wearable.
Sara Maggioni, director of retail and purchasing at WGSN, London trend forecasting company, said that fashion’s Birkenstock is a model for anti-fashion. In 2012, Birkenstock sold about 10 million pairs of shoes; in 2017, the company sold 25 million pairs.
“Yes, they are hard to see,” Maggioni said. “But this is a familiar outline. It is not terrible or terrible.”
Chunky sneakers dominated at the Maison Margiela Fall Winter 2018 show. (Raymond Chan/MCV Photo For The Washington Post)
The same dazzling prairie dress was interpreted by Raf Simons for the Calvin Klein 205W39NYC in the fall of 2017. One of the long ankle styles features a pin buckle and a wide ruffle trim. Only its deep V-neck can prevent it from looking like Amish. Cost: $3,900. At Calvin Klein, the exterior is part of a series that explores a large Americana, which also includes firefighter jackets, cadet shirts and heirlooms.
“It’s not just about what your grandmother is holding in the closet,” Maggioni said. “It has adapted to the taste now.”
The prairie dress is on display at Calvin Klein, New York, 2018-2019. (MCV photo of Marcelo Soubhia / Washington Post)
Calvin Klein 205W39NYC 2018 autumn and winter collection. (MCV photo of Marcelo Soubhia / Washington Post)
The brand Batsheva is fully committed to the grasslands: Laura Ashley meets Gunne Sax and meets the rubbish. This $420 floral cotton dress features a fluffy shoulder and a ruffled Peter Pan collar. Some rooms have ruffle trim. They sometimes work with a coordinated hat to get the most out of fashion. Vogue likes them. MatchesFashion.com is sold with Prada and Saint Laurent.
Wearing these styles is like performing a three-way fashion: high difficulty, major risk of failure, if you have a huge bragging right.
but why? Why did Batsheva Hay grow up in Queens, not in some of the windswept Nebraska prairies, he is a lawyer at Georgetown University Education, not a goat farmer – creating a whole set of pioneer dresses, It seems that they should take their own lean production?
“I always wear vintage,” she explained. “But when I started working as a lawyer 10 years ago, I couldn’t wear all the clothes I collected. Then I gave up, and with the children, I thought, ‘I can do what I want to do.'”
She moved to the Upper West Side of Manhattan. She noticed that many older people wore Laura Ashley-style dresses, sneakers and purses. Her mother was a hippie in the 1960s. Her father is an Israeli. She is named after the characters in the Old Testament, and sometimes she is equivalent to feminism. After giving birth to a baby girl, she began to indulge in the dress of her mother and daughter. The tornado of this influence allowed her to create a retro old world, a simple collection that refused to make women’s images sexy, and also played a role in traditional femininity.
Designer Batsheva Hay’s ode to the grasslands. (Aleksey Hay)
At Batsheva, the promise of grassland clothing is 100%. (Aleksey Hay)
Prairie dresses are a style that spans all of these cultures. People wear them in Eastern Europe and the South. I like colors and patterns,” Hay said, 37 years old. “I started making them according to my personal desires and needs, and I pulled off nonsense from them.”
She launched her collection two years ago. These dresses have now become one of the things in the fashion circle. If you look closely at them and make your eyes adjust, maybe you can imagine them wearing rough hair and a pair of mod boots or a pair of fancy sneakers.
You definitely won’t wear these dresses for a pair of high heels. “I can’t wear a dress with a double pump,” said Shefman. “It looks terrible.”
This Batsheva steppe dress features slip-resistant ankle boots. (Aleksey Hay)
The way to this point has begun – where? Fashion has been integrated into the ugly aesthetics of the past, and the most striking thing is that in the late 1990s, Prada emerged with its faint prints and enamel colors. But this transition is most likely to be traced back to the normal state. This short-term anti-fashion uprising entered the trend report around 2013, pushing the humble clothing to fashion. Put a little daddy style. The perfect combination with Instagram is a rising resentment. Add some fashion hatred from the crowd. And talk to Vetements, Balenciaga, Y / Project, Gucci and other brands that support unorthodox beauty and gender mobility.
[Starting in 1996: The ugly existence: how tacky fabrics, nasty colors and nasty patterns become the current style]
“Back to the day, luxury usually means femininity. It means a beautiful bag or a beautiful cashmere sweater,” Schaffman said. “These items are mostly lacking in femininity.”
“We know that this is almost a rebellion against luxury goods,” she said. They chose an ordinary career instead of looking for attention with extraordinary luxury.
In other words, consumers are responsible for these ugly waves. Our people are cheating on themselves. But this does not necessarily mean that great unwashed people will somehow weaken the power of hypnosis and pursuit.
“The designer looked around and said, ‘If people want to wear Birkenstocks, I will gain my market share. ‘They design velvet Birkenstocks or gems Birkenstocks,” said Shefman.